By Rob Samuelsen
While I was at a professional conference in Flagstaff, I found myself admiring the beautiful blue sky, the deep green ponderosa pine forest, and the snow on the nearby San Francisco peaks. Looking out the window, my mind wandered to Mt. Humphries, the tallest peak in Arizona and my hiking nemesis. The 12,633 foot mountain has thwarted my attempts to summit on two different occasions. Once was because of a nasty pop up thunderstorm and the other was a freak summer blizzard. While I was gazing out the window, I realized that the next topic was of absolutely no interest to me, and I decided my time would be better spent exploring nearby Walnut Canyon National Monument.
I did not bring hiking clothes so my wingtips would have to suffice. Many years ago, after a similar conference in Palm Springs, I’d hiked in Joshua Tree National Park in a three-piece suit, so slacks and Florsheim’s didn’t seem particularly out of place. At least I wasn’t wearing a tie! I quietly snuck out the rear door and quickly headed for my vehicle. If I timed it right, I’d be back just before lunch.
Walnut Canyon is a deep gorge carved out by Walnut Creek over a period of 60 million years. Because of the serpentine riverbed, there is a wide variety of plant and animal life sufficient to support an ancient community of hundreds of families. The Sinagua people built sturdy homes in limestone alcoves using shaped blocks and masonry walls. They stored water and food in bulk to withstand the long summer droughts and cold winter snow. They grew corn, beans, and squash on the canyon rim and hunted deer, big horn sheep, and turkey in the forested plateau. Water was abundant from below and they managed to haul water for their farming and drinking needs. This protected canyon was their home for 150 years. By the year 1250, the Sinagua people had moved on for unknown reasons to unknown locations. It wouldn’t be occupied again until westerners discovered its beauty and prehistoric treasures.
The canyon trail begins in the visitors’ center, which helps the rangers to control access. With fragile artifacts and dangerous cliffs, it’s important to guard against vandals and bandits. My first impression was sheer amazement at the number of dwellings tucked away in the steep cliff walls. Virtually every alcove was occupied by a clever prehistoric dwelling with level floors and vented ceilings. Some even had gutters to keep water from dipping off the lip of the overhang. With the quiet wind, I could almost hear women climbing the steep trails with heavy baskets while the children played in the water below and the men were off hunting for game that would provide precious protein to their families. As I imagined their departure, I was jolted back to reality by the alarm on my phone reminding me about the conference. Reluctantly, I ascended the many stairs and returned to the 21st century, arriving just in time for a nicely prepared lunch at an elegant hotel. It was stunning to travel a thousand years in history in a period of two hours in the present. It was my reward.
