By Rob Samuelsen

Historically, the Grand River originated from the continental divide in Colorado and flowed southwesterly across the Colorado Plateau to the confluence of the Green River. The conjoined river formed the Colorado River just south of Moab, Utah. For whatever reason, in 1921 Congress renamed the entirety of the Grand River to the Colorado River making it the sixth longest river in America at 1,450 miles and passing through seven American states and two Mexican states before emptying in the Gulf of California. Just as the river crosses into Utah, it enters into a 17-mile-long canyon called Westwater Canyon.
Westwater Canyon is coveted by white water enthusiasts because of its unique geology. Not only does it cut through the omnipresent soft sandstones of the Colorado Plateau but it also exposes hard Precambrian igneous and metamorphic rocks (the earliest part of Earth’s history) making this section of the river narrower, faster, and better for whitewater rafting enthusiasts.

As I was climbing into the raft, a specimen of our national bird erupted from a nest hidden in the cliffs just above me. I figured to have a majestic bald eagle welcome me to the canyon must be a good omen. Either that or the carnivorous scavenger was looking at me as human carrion. Certainly I would be a better meal than a scrawny roadkill – all meat and no fur!
Almost immediately, the whitewater starts with continuous rapids for most of the trip. However, nine of the 11 biggest rapids occur in a 2.5-mile-long section through the ancient schist. The river guide carefully maneuvered the boat above each section of whitewater to avoid capsizing the craft and threatening the expensive mortal payload. Skull rapid is the most difficult and consequential chute on the entire day trip. There is a rock in the middle of the river that in low water creates an obstacle but in high water creates a massive hole followed by a sharp left turn. If you miss the left turn, you end up in a strong side canyon eddy on the right. At 10,000 cubic feet per second, the eddy eats boats! I have rafted enough to know the treacherous set-up – I had a tinge of terror thinking about the consequences of missing this turn. In fact, from my vantage point, I wasn’t sure if the river went left or right! I could see the eddy filled with floating debris, but the flow seemed equally split such that I was unsure which way was downhill. The expert guide positioned the boat in just the right spot and zipped through the big wave splashes but without hitting rocks or capsizing. In all my years of paddling, the class IV skull rapid might be on my most respected list.

Paddling the famed Cataract Canyon two days later, I was complacent towards the one-day Westwater Canyon trip but it exceeded my expectations and did not disappoint. The cool water and warm sun made it a beautiful day. The whitewater was excellent and the guides were experienced. Miners and outlaws found solace in its rugged canyons and so did I.

Rob Samuelsen is an executive and adventurer supported by his long-suffering but supportive wife!

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